Guatemala: Land of Eternal Spring
Thud. The motor of our boat stopped abruptly. The only sounds were the frantic whirr as the driver tried to crank and the lapping of the water as we dipped from one wave to another. We were in the midst of 1000-foot deep Lake Atitlan, and the waves were pitching the small boat up and down like a tiny piece of flotsam. We could see the volcano rising over the village of Santiago, but my daughter Natalie and I did not think about the possible perils. We reflected upon our experiences in Guatemala, the Land of Eternal Spring.
Actually, when we decided to go to Guatemala and Costa Rica last November, we did not think much of the fact that half our time would be spent in Guatemala. Like many tourists, we had heard of the wonders of Costa Rica, but the land of Guatemala and its gentle people truly grabbed us with delightful memories.
The short flight from Miami took us to Guatemala City, a city of 4 million. A driver, who spoke little English, took us in a SUV over about 50 miles of bumpy roads to Antigua.
Antigua: UNESCO World Heritage Site
As we traveled the wide cobblestone streets of Antigua, we stopped at the end of a short alley to the unimpressive Porta Hotel. With disapproving glances, we unloaded and then entered a palace-like courtyard. Looks from the outside were certainly deceiving. A huge swimming pool was surrounded by hibiscus, oleander and other tropical plants. Scarlet macaws and toucans called to us day and night. The rooms were spacious and comfortable and even had CNN, a luxury we have not found in many foreign countries.
Built in the sixteenth century, Antigua, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is one of the most fascinating cities in the world. Surrounded by three volcanoes, it is an oasis of calm beauty with neatly painted old colonial buildings. Antigua was the capital of the colonial Spanish colony until a series of earthquakes prompted the move to the present-day Guatemala City in 1776. Although many of the buildings were partially destroyed, many are still intact or have been restored with their original walls.
Our guide, Stu (real name Estuado), led us through the city to the painted cathedrals and monastery ruins. One of the most beautiful structures combines traditional architecture and local art. Many of the Indian beliefs have been incorporated to create a unique hybrid, referred to as folk Catholicism. We spent some time in the Plaza Mayor that was flanked by the impressive Catedral de San Jose and the palace of the rulers. We were impressed with the industry of the young shoe-shine boys, who wanted to shine our shoes even though we wore sandals and tennis shoes.
Markets, Lakes, and Volcanoes
From Antigua, we left the colonial feeling behind to travel through Indian country of the highlands, which provides coffee and corn-growing farmland. The blackened cones of more than 30 volcanoes dot this country. In recent years, six volcanoes have erupted with smoke and lava. In 1976, an earthquake killed 23,000 people. Here, the people live in small houses with tin roofs.
“The roofs are a problem,” Stu said. “They cook and heat with open fires, and the smoke fills the houses because there are no chimneys. The number one cause of death and sickness among the people, especially children, is respiratory illness. The farmers here have four things they value, in this order: (1) their land with the crops growing; (2) their pick-up trucks; (3) gold in their teeth; (4) education of their children.”
We did notice that all the natives in the markets had gold fillings in their teeth.
“These people are poor, but they are not miserable, and there is a difference,” Stu said.
The whitewashed town of Chichicastenango is world famous for its market and for its festivals. The market was a kaleidoscope, not only with vegetables, but also with colorful tapestries and handcrafts. We have been to many countries with aggressive vendors, but these young girls really tugged at our hearts. Tourists are told to ignore these pesky mosquitoes if you do not want to buy, and if you do, bargain with them. I was not good at ignoring or bargaining.
When we bought one tapestry, a cadre of sweet young things followed us around, saying, “Please buy from me. I made it myself.” I bought ten gorgeous pieces and stopped only when I remembered the airlines’ weight limit.
Our next stop was the beautiful Lake Atitlan surrounded by three volcanoes and numerous indigenous villages. The voyage across the lake to the village of Santiago was the most poignant part of our trip. Here we were reminded of the travail of the native people during the 36-year civil war. One after another, governments in Guatemala were replaced by repressive military leaders. Encouraged by Cuba, in the 1960s four left-wing guerrilla armies waged war against the government and struck from the mountains. Both sides tortured and murdered people who were suspected of being on the other side. Thousands in this village died at the hands of death squads. There was a curfew placed from 4 in the afternoon to 10 in the morning; no one could leave their small compounds. The family in the picture endured such a curfew with 27 people crowded into a small yard.
Catholic priests in this area became active in social justice or liberation theology. We saw the place at the altar of a church where a priest was killed. Peace initiatives ended the hostilities in December 1996 when the army agreed to reduce its role in policing the country. The country is gradually becoming aware of protecting human rights.
However, according to Stu, “Real change in Guatemala is one to two generations away.”
None of the children in Santiago went to school. The experience haunted us on the way back — even though we were stalled on a rough Lake Atitlan.
Guatemala City
The Spaniards who settled the lower part of the highlands in the 16th century inter-married with the indigenous population and produced a mixed group called the Ladinos. Ladinos have access to better health and lifestyle. We went through several high-end, gated areas of this huge city, which contrasted with the tin-covered huts of the rural population. Here the social customs are European. However, this city has a problem with people moving in from the country seeking a better life. With this movement have come gangs from other Central American countries, such as El Salvador and Nicaragua.
However, positive change is coming. With stability, the gorgeous landscape, the Mayan ruins and the Spanish colonial treasures make the land of eternal spring a real surprise.
